Hard Top for Rasmus

I have started building the hard top for the Rasmus out of ply.  I am going to build it in place for the most part.  I was going to make a frame out of stainless steel but decided to go with plywood/epoxy/glass composite.  I thought the steel frame would add too much weight up top.  After looking at measurements sent by Euan and pictures, I have come up with my best guess at the hardtop radius.  I am going with a hardtop radius of 122 inches.  I will make the top out of 2 layers of 1/4 inch okouma ply bonded with epoxy. Below is the dimensions for making the jig necessary for making the top with a 122 inch radius curve.  If anyone out there thinks I am off base on this I would like to hear from you.
Cheers
  Pat

Boat Work Can Be Dangerous

Well I started 2012 off with a mishap in my shop.  As I was jointing a piece of wood for the Rasmus I let my mind wander for just a second and inadvertently used my jointer as a finger nail clipper and trimmed the nail a little too close. I bet I find increased focus when using my tools. Ouch.  Anyway, Happy New Year to everyone.

My stove & other jobs

Seeing Pat's post prompted me to take a picture of my own. Its a SIG100 / Taylor form Canada that I picked up second hand and fitted. The diesel is fed from a header tank located high up on
the bulkhead in the heads.

I use diesel from the ships tank and transfer it across to the header tank on a batch basis.

Also I have just fitted a new battery charger which is both a really neat unit and is proving quite

an impressive performer. My batteries are under the seat on the aft end of the settee, so the chosen location is really neat as you can monitor performance etc.

The unit is an M100 - full spec on attached link

http://www.ctek-chargers.com/?gclid=CNu2v_u2sq0CFcMMtAodp3YHmA

Rasmus Web Site and Blog Audience

I have been keeping track of the folks looking at the HR Rasmus Home website and this blog.  To date we have people from 45 countries taking a look at them.  I think that is pretty neat.  Here is the list.

2012 To do List

My first cruise in a 16 foot McKenzy River Dory along Mississippi's Barrier Islands.

It's amazing the amount of work I still have left after 4 years of semi to full time work on this Rasmus.  I will finish this year.  I have too.  For my mental health (and I am not entirely joking).  It has been a long and demanding project.  My major projects for this new year are: 1) build the dodger and hardtop 2) purchase and install the engine and its peripherals 3) install the Cape Horn Windvane 4) and install the electronics. I will also be busy selling off property.  Downsizing big time.  That is very exciting.  You can have too much crap and I do.  The sell off will be liberating.   In the meantime, I am going to enjoy the new year with a new commitment to good eating and regular excercise.  I am on two 4.5 senior tennis teams, one in my home town of Little Rock and one in Des Moines with my older brother.  Hopefully one of those teams can make it to the national tourney.  I am also planning a nice backcountry hike through the wilds of Yellowstone National Park.  It has become one of my favorite places on the planet.  My youngest will be off to college in August of 2012 and if all is good with the family, I will be leaving on my first cruise in the Rasmus January 2013.

Inner Forestay for the Rasmus

I have been talking to Mack Sails about new sails and they have just about talked me into putting in an inner forestay for a small jib and storm sail.  I kinda wanted one anyway.  I have just sent them a design idea and I am waiting for a response.  Here is a quick sketch I sent them to see if it is feasable. 

Tiny Tot Installation Photos

Below are photos of tht Tiny Tot installation.

I had to cut a six inch dia. hole for the Navigator built
bronze thru hull for the pipe. Shown is the cloverleaf
pipe cap.

Here is a closer look at the well made bronze thru hull.

I placed it on the forward sette, so I made it easily removeable.  The long
pipe provides great radiant heat and nice draft.

Close up of the Tiny Tot.  I will bolt it to the tile and hinge the two tile pieces
so I can fold them together for storage.

I used a stainless steel band off of a fernco coupling to attach the pipe to the thru hull.
I can loosen it and slide it down over the pipe to remove the stove easily. I also used
two 45 degree pipe fittings in order to accomodate the angled roof.  One is used to below
the roof and one above the roof, keeping everything nice a plumb.  This allowed me to
mount the bronze thru hull  flush with the roof without having to build a wooden block
to mount it on.  This way it is less obtrusive when the pipe is put away and eliminate another
possible leak source.