Custom Hardtop/Dodger

Hello Rasmus Owners,

I am in the process of designing and building hardtop/dodger and I am trying to get as close to the factory dimensions as possible.  If any merciful soul out there has a Hallberg Rassy factory built hardtop  I would love to get a couple of measurements off of you.

1. The length from the center and bottom of the forward windshield (where the dodger sits on the dodger step) to the bottom of the hardtop roof (following the angle of the windshield).

2.  The length from the bottom  (where the dodger sits on the dodger step) of the corner where the front windshield ajoins the diagonal windshield to the bottom of the hardtop roof (following along the intersection of the front and diagonal windshields).

3. The length from the bottom  (where the dodger sits on the dodger step) of the corner where the diagonal windshield ajoins the side windshield to the bottom of the hardtop roof (following along the intersection of the diagonal and side windshields).

4. The length from the bottom of the side windshield (where the dodger sits on the dodger step) following the stearn end of the harddodger to the bottom of the hardtop roof (following the angle of the windshield).

The measurements don't have to be supremely accurate.  To the nearest quarter inch would be fine.  I just need a rough guideline. Well, not too rough.  Thanks to anyone that can lend me a hand on this project.  I will post the work at http://www.lizardheadone.com/

Price for New Windshield for the Rasmus

I am in the process of designing/fabricating a new windshield/hard top for my Rasmus.  I was curious and requested a quote from Hallberg Rassy a while back and they just sent me the figure.  Are you ready? It came out to 36,000 SEK or $5,430.00 plus shipping and VAT charges.  With some time and effort I think I can build one for under $600.00.  My plan is to use 1/4 inch thick by 1 1/2 inch wide 316 stainless steel bar stock that I just ordered from the internest for around $300.00.  I will make a jig so the welder can weld the bar stock into the shape of the original frame.  I will then add wood to the sides of the bar stock to hold the glass or plastic windows and bolt on the hardtop.  My plan is to make the hardtop removable without too much effort.  I was going to make it out of plywood and fiberglass but decided that I didn't want to do all that epoxy/fiberglass work.  I am hoping this current design will be easier and better looking.

This is the email from Hallberg Rassy:

1.       Regarding the windscreen: I´ve talked to our supplier and he want the old windscreen sent to him in sections so that he can use them as a template. This is because the parts are asymmetric, so there are 5 different sizes/malls for the 5 diiferent windscreen parts. The fixingrails has to be fitted in by You. Price for the Windscreen is 36,000 Sek. ex VAT. Shipping cost will be added because I have no idea how the parts will be packed from our supplier.

2.       Cutlass bearing. I know that the shaft is 30mm. Price for the 30mm. bearing is, 737 Sek. ex VAT. The outher diameter is 44,45mm. and the length is 127mm. Can You please check this on the boat. You might have to cut the cutlass bearing.

VOLVO part number is 812916.

Removing the Cutlass Bearing on the Rasmus

I thought I was going to be clever and fashion a custom tool to remove the bearing for a few bucks, so I went to Home Depot and  bought some all thread, washers, and nuts and went home to quickly crank the bearing right out.  Like most projects on this boat, reality is much more difficult than theory.  The problem is that on the Rasmus's propeller shaft log has a restriction very near the inward end of the cutlass bearing that has nearly the same diameter as the cutlass bearing.  This restriction eliminates the possibility of using washers and all thread to remove the bearing.  So, I used the old tried and true method of hacking, banging, chipping, chiseling, and cursing the damn thing out.  That is not far from the truth, however, here is a bit more detail.  I used a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade and carefully cut a groove nearly all the way through the bearing at the six oclock position. If you wanted to make the job much easier and didn't mind scoring the inside of your shaft log you could cut all the way through the brearing, but I did not want to do that for obvious reasons.  Then I cut another groove nearly all the way through the bearing at the nine oclock position.  Now, here is the fun part.  I got a sharp 1/2 inch wood chisel and tapped the edge of the bearing near the groove being careful to stay clear of the log(the log is soft and that hardened chisel will do a number on it).  The wood chisel will grab the soft brass bearing and you should be able to get the bearing to work away from the log.  I kept pounding the bearing between the two groove I cut curling the bearing surface back towards the inside of the log.  At one point the bend of the bearing was getting so large it was hitting the other side of the bearing.  At that point I used my chisel and pound it until I had cut the curling piece of bearing off. I did this until the entire bearing between the two grooves I cut was out.  At this stage I just used my chisel to pound the bearing surface away from the log being very careful to keep the chisel off of all log shaft surfaces. It took a lot of pounding and cursing, but it worked without damaging the shaft log.  It might be easier to cut the grooves closer together, say in the 6 oclock to 7 oclock position.  That way there would be less bearing metal to bend over and cut as you pounded it back.  You also must be very careful about the length of your cut.  It is hard to see the blade as it reciprocates, thus, it's hard to see just how far in you are cutting. Good Luck!

I just got an email from Hallberg Rassy (above post) and the cutlass bearing for the rasmus measures: Outside diameter = 44 to 45mm    
Propeller Shaft diameter = 30 mm
Length = 127mm
Cost = $112 from Hallberg Rassy

Bottom Paint On

Just applied the first coat of bottom paint and I am really happy!  Nice to know I am finished with all the tough hull work.  And it looks so good.  Now it's time to start screwing and bolting this thing back together.